Discover the unspoiled and majestic coastline
along the rugged north coast of Cape Breton Island from our dive base
located in Dingwall on the scenic Cabot Trail. This particular part
of Cape Breton is steeped in a rich and mysterious history. Between
the tip of Cape North and the coastal community of Ingonish lie the
remains of over two hundred shipwrecks and 14 miles off the coast
is St. Paul Island with over 350 recorded shipwrecks.
Cape
Breton Island is located at the extreme north east end of Nova Scotia
on the rugged coast of eastern Canada. The island is 110 miles in
length and roughly 87 miles across at its widest point. The whole
of the island with the exception of the northwest coast, is in indented
by deep bays and inlets often terminating in excellent harbours. The
summer months from June to September provide the best window of opportunity
for scuba diving and searching for shipwrecks.
It was on the morning of June 24, 1497 that John Cabot and his son
Sabastian Cabot landed on the beach in the shadow of Sugar Loaf Mountain
in Aspy Bay and called the island "prima terra vista". There
is evidence that the Portuguese explorer Fagundes arrived in 1521
and attempted to settle Ingonish and St. Annes Bay. However old records
recently unearthed in Spain now show that the Basque actualy crossed
the Atlantic Ocean in pursuit of whales and discovered the lucrative
fishing grounds of the Grand Banks. It is also believed that they
also discovered and named the island of Cape Breton and they even
penetrated the Gulf of St. Lawrence, 100 years before Columbus discovered
America.
But the history of Cape Breton goes back much further than that. In
fact over 900 years ago (that we know about at this time) there were
other inhabatants over
those years that included the Maritime Archaic Indians, the Vikings,
the Mic maqh Indians and possibly others. According to certain ancient
Icelandic manuscripts, or Saga (as they are called) the whole of the
eastern coast of America from Greenland to Nantucket, was discovered
by Norweigan rovers in the tenth century, soon after the settlement
of Iceland and Greenland. The country called Helluland, or Slateland
in the Saga, was evidently Newfoundland; that called Markland or Woodland,
was Nova Scotia and Cape Breton.
It is stated in the Saga that frequent voyages were made during the
eleventh and twelfth centuries to various parts of the newly-discovered
countries and that in 1347, a vessel returning from Markland with
a cargo of wood was wrecked on the coast of Iceland. As Cape Breton
is the nearest land to Iceland which produces any wood, it is reasonable
to conclude, if the Saga are worthy of credit, that the island was
well known and visited by the Norsemen at least 600 years ago. There
is a great deal of research that records English, French, Spanish
and Portugese ships exploring and even attempting to settle parts
of Cape Breton Island throughout the 15th, 16th and 17th Century.
Some even wrecked here. With a history dating back over one thousand
years, Cape Breton Island is one of the oldest and most historical
parts of the world and historians speculate there may be in excess
of 1000 ships wrecked on Cape Breton Island alone.
One of the earliest recorded shipwrecks (that we know of at this time)
to occur on Cape Breton Island was the 70 ton English warship the
Chancewell which wrecked on June 23, 1597. Historians and scholars
have narrowed the suspected site of this wreck down to two possible
areas: St. Anns Bay or possibly near Ingonish. To date it has never
been found and while not a treasure ship, its historical significance
is of paramount importance.
Cape North and Aspy Bay
Cape
North lies at the north eastern extremity of Cape Breton Island
and rises abruptly as a rocky headland to a height of 1100 feet.
It has no shallow water at its base, but around to the eastward
at Money Point a few rocks show themselves. To the Mic maqh Indians
Cape North was called Uktutunook or "highest mountain".
Other versions like "Cape du Nord" and "Cape North"
are simply descriptive names given to that area and the beauty of
the landscape cannot be overstated. Cape North was first settled
in 1812. Similarly, Aspy Bay was known as Wegwaak or "turning
suddenly". The French knew the area as Havre d' Aspe or D'
Achepe which may have been patterened after the Mic maqh word for
codfish, apaqo or apago.
To the Basques who fished in these waters, it was Pic d' Aspe after
the Pyrenean mountains of the same name. Regardless of it's origins
it is easy to see how the English arrived at the name "Aspy
Bay" although the orgin of their other name for the region,
"Egmont Bay" is unknown. However to mariners, it can be
particularly treacherous and in addition to the topography, a pecular
phenomenom at Aspy Bay gave early sailors an extra reason for caution.
The
bay is over 8 miles across and 4 miles deep. Along its shores, Atlantic
storms have swept a mass of fine sand, which forms a beautiful beach.
At places this sand is found to be of a black color, very heavy,
and possesing a metallic lustre, and is to all appearance, iron
in a comparatively state. It is probably on this account that compasses
will not work properly at any part of this bay, in consequence of
which if proper notice be not taken, much property may be lost.
In the month of September, 1882, two large steamships took shelter
in the bay during a stormy night, and in the morning, the Captain
and one of the crew came ashore, seeking assistence, assurring the
people that his compass was of no service to him.
Nestled in the heart of Aspy Bay is the coastal fishing community
of Dingwall. One of several settlements on Aspy Bay, the name "Dingwall"
originates from Scotland, which was the supposed birthplace of the
much-maligned King Mac Beth. Norse in origin, the name "Dingwall"
comes from Ting (parliament) and Voir (valley). From there, a thousand
years ago, the Vikings governed the north. These Vikings also crossed
the Atlantic and roamed the shores at the top of Cape Breton Island.
They got word back to Europe by way of the Norse sagas, which spoke
of Vinland and Markland. About 800 years later Scottish settlers
came to these shores.
On old maps from the early 1800's it was
known as Young's Cove. Among the first settlers and grantees for
land was Walter Young in 1827. Later in the late 1870's a Mr. Robert
Dingwall who kept a small general store there, made an application
for a post office, and suggested to the government that the place
be named Dingwall. By provincial statute, chapter 55 in 1883, the
name of Young's Cove was changed to Dingwall. Today fishing and
tourism are the main industries. Dingwall is also where one of the
richest shipwrecks in this hemisphere occurred, the ship was called
"Auguste" and it wrecked in a vicious winter storm back
in November of 1761.
"St. Paul Island is far away from where I live in the
UK. Nevertheless, it has always been worth the time, trouble,
expense and effort it takes to get there. It is a lonely, solitary
island and the only place in the world I know where the diver
is "guaranteed" to find cannon, shot and dead eye from
another age of life at sea. Diving St. Paul Island is like diving
straight into a bygone era and I know of nowhere else on earth
with which to make a comparison".
Major Ned Middleton FRGS
British Underwater Photo-Journalist, Author, Media Consultant,
Shipwreck Historian and Natural History Photographer
"Over 30 meters underwater visibility every day, an enormous potential
to discover virgin wrecks. With out a doubt St. Paul Island is
the best cold water wreck diving I have ever experienced."
Lizzie Bird
National Diving Officer
British Sub Aqua Club (BSAC)
"After going there (Saint Paul Island) you
would have to find something the same or better to get us interested.
I thought that going to Truk and Trimix diving out of Scapa
Flow was the tops, but this is going to take some beating."
Mick Cullen, Newbury Sub-Aqua Club
"The United Kingdom has more wrecks per mile of coastline
than anywhere else in the world, which begs the question: who
comes second? The answer?Nova Scotia."
John Liddiard, diving photographer and journalist

Members of the 2009 St. Paul Island Expedition Team, from left to right
are divers Derek King, Ron Newcombe, Terry Dwyer and Wynan "Dutch"
Baerken. The Captain of the "Meg and Kel" Scott Fitzgerald, James
"Herbo" Humphreys from MAREX Global and Zodiac operator Johnny
Fitzgerald.
PO Box
22133
Bayers Road RPO
Halifax
,
NS
B3L 4T7
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